Skins and Accents

A lot of people looking to break into the skin scene have questions about how to make skins look 'good'. There's really nowhere on the site that compiles a bunch of tips from experienced skinmakers.

I thought it'd be cool to have a thread where skin artists share their workflow or tips. I love discussions where people post screenshots of things like 'here's how I usually do my lines' and 'these are the layers I draw on'. I'm always curious how other artist do their work too :)

Feel free to share anything related to skinmaking that could help someone. Screenshots of your screen specs, tips to not get stuck in queue, or what kind of sketching/line brush colors you like to use! Shop discussion welcome too.

To start off, I'd like to share how I draw my skins using this as an example. I use CSP, but before my laptop made it completely unusable I also used SAI. [item=skin: mycelium mage] 1) I download a dragon image straight off the site from a scry or random dragon. I size this image up to 1250px by 1250px in CSP, put a white background under it, and lower the dragon layer to 20%-50%. I prefer using a dragon over the default greyscale base because I can see genes and colors on it! It also helps that many of the skins I make these days are customs. I start a folder on top that I will put all my skin elements into, then take the default lines and shadows and clip them on top. I set these to be non-visible until I'm completely done. [img]https://i.imgur.com/jimglvN.png[/img] 2) I sketch out the skin, focusing on things like overall composition and shape of the skin over any real detail at first. I always sketch in black, and I do not make a separate lining layer. In fact, I just clean up stray lines on the sketch to turn it into my lines. [img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/898049917245878282/1069780936184561704/image.png[/img] After cleaning up the sketch, I merge any layers all onto one line layer. Since I use the bucket tool/select tool to fill the inverse of the outside of the lines, I make sure that they're completely closed (on the outside at least). What brush do I use? Default brush. Default brush with default settings and stabilizer turned off. Between 6-8px on a 1250px canvas is what I find looks best. Any thicker and it looks weird in resize, any thinner and it starts looking really crunchy. [img]https://i.imgur.com/yqdszcA.png[/img] 3) Using a layer underneath the lines, I color block in all of the elements. Again, I do this on one layer because I need to see how each color looks in relation to the ones next to it. I zoom out as I go to check the overall balance of the entire skin. I like using very saturated colors and a limited palette. Try to keep hues consistent across your skin. If you're very used to art you can break this rule, but remember that lines and shadows will decimate any subtleties you put in. Simpler is better! [img]https://i.imgur.com/CE0f5Xb.png[/img] 4) Finally, I color the 'inside' of the lines by setting the lineart layer to multiple. Then I select all the lines that aren't directly touching the dragon or on top of another element to color a hue/shade similar but distinct from the fill color. Finally, I clip the lines and shadows to the skin folder. [img]https://i.imgur.com/RZZ69qe.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/sZSxLM0.png[/img] Here's some more examples of my sketch to final! [img]https://i.imgur.com/o7Rvjk7.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/XjRg6Hy.png[/img]

This is my favorite lazy hack of ALL time for people who don't have photoshop's autoline. Check this out: [item=skin: lunar tides] I had a string of pearls and strands of kelp around this fest skin. I drew these by simply putting down 'lines' of color for the kelp and white dots for the pearls. You can think of this as reverse lining! You're putting down the colors before you add the lines. [img]https://i.imgur.com/g7MLbEC.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/Fj5ssXz.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/tyrRuNj.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/gSiFpLq.png[/img] I use this trick a lot, especially if I'm asked to do filigree/fancy swirls/shapes. It's easier for me to draw these shapes in one solid color block then expand selection to 'line' it all after. Examples of the stuff you can do with this: [img]https://i.imgur.com/mC1Zrhq.png[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/JINrw9X.png[/img]

Res post here. I'm gonna talk about how to disguise the shape of a dragon if you plan to do anatomy-changing skins.

So you wanna draw like Katalist? Have a read! [center][b][u][size=5]Intro:[/size][/u][/b][/center] Before I start, I do wanna preface this by saying I have nearly 16 years of experience with photoshop and art. My process will not teach you how to draw, but it may help you with cool skins. I am also colourblind, so my skills are majority lineart-based. [center][b][u][size=5]Tools:[/size][/u][/b][/center] Tools do not define the artist! These are just the things I use over the years. [LIST] [*] [b]Yiynova MVP22U Tablet Monitor/Wacom Intuos Small.[/b] One is attached to my computer and lets me draw on the screen, the other is portable. Both have learning curves, but allow me to use pen pressure! [*][b]Adobe Photoshop 2021[/b]. I do not endorse PS products, however I've been using PS since I was 10. It's as familiar as my right hand. [*][b]KYLE Ultimate Brush Pack[/b] - Specifically the brush Ultimate Inking Thick and Thin. This is my ride or die brush. [*][b]Yuumei's Brush Pack[/b] - For my clouds and stars. [*][b]PureRef[/b] - to host all my references. Drag and drop, rotate, flip, colour picking, it has it all. [*][b]https://x6ud.github.io/#/[/b] - for my animal photo and skull references. Allows you to rotate skulls so you can understand perspectives better! [/LIST] [center][b][u][size=5]Before I start:[/size][/u][/b][/center] Preparation is key! [img]https://i.imgur.com/U9uZzmN.png[/img] Here is a screenshot of how my program and skins are set up. Every time I download a new breed, I do a few things so that it's ready to go for whatever I want. 1. Open the file in PS. Add 3 new layers above the [i]Accent Parts[/i] and [i]Skin Parts[/i] groups. Call these layers "Base", "Lines" and "Shadows". Group the "Lines" and "Shadows" layers if you wish. 2. Control + click the thumbnail of your Shadow Clip layer to get the 'marching ants' selection. 3. Click on your new Shadow layer, and using the bucket tool, click on your image to fill in the selected shadows with a black/dark colour. Lower the opacity of the layer to 50%. 4. Repeat this with the lines, but don't worry about lowering the opacity. If you've put the two layers in a group, lower the opacity to 15%. This allows you to see the lines and shadows without disrupting your design. 5. Control + Click the thumbnails of both the "Lines" and "Flats" layers (located in [i]Skin Parts[/i]). Do you ever see skins that seem misaligned/don't completely fit the dragon? That's because the flats layer doesn't include the lines layer. 6. Click on your new "Base" layer (called Layer 1 in my image cause I'm lazy), and click on the image with your bucket tool to fill in the base. Remember to fill it in with a white or light colour! You can stop here, but I like to go further and use clipping masks and colour fills. [columns][img]https://i.imgur.com/ecjcwTu.png[/img][nextcol]7. The Pie image adds adjustment layers, and is your best friend. Click the Pie image > Solid Colour to fill the image with a select colour. I like #2B2B2B, its dark and Shakespearean. 8. Pie > Solid Colour again to get another solid colour layer. Move the layer just above the "Base" layer, right click on the layer and select "Create Clipping Mask" and it will change your base colour easily without you having to recolour. If it's greyed out, you've accidentally moved your layer into the group above it. 9. Save the file! I save as something different, like skydancer_f_dragon Prepped so I know which one to click later.[/columns] [center][b][u][size=5]Time to art:[/size][/u][/b][/center] I'm going to use a few recent customs as my example for this, to show my current process. My style changes as I grow, so don't be discouraged if your skins change drastically as you improve. Styles are like climates, one cold day doesn't mean it's Winter. Keep making skins, and you'll see habits form and turn into your style. Study other artists, but don't copy their styles completely. Skins used in this tutorial: [skin=48310][skin=43850][skin=49173][skin=44703][skin=48043] [b]Step 1: Gather References.[/b] The more the better. I'm not going to get into the topic of references here, but my general rule is no more than 30% of an image should be made from a single reference. That means, for an underwater mecha skin, I trawl pinterest, twitter, google, or take photos myself for references, concepts, and brainstorming. I collect all of these on PureRef. [img]https://i.imgur.com/OOPOx8b.png[/img] [i]Scribbled images are unpublished WIPs from my friend and shop co-owner, Eearz.[/i] [b]Step 2: Sketch your design.[/b] Before you sketch, I recommend opening up a second window at 46.67% to preview what your skin would look like at 350x350. This will live update while you work, so you can see how legible the skin is. Very important when you work with detail like me! (I'll explain how to do this more in-depth in my second post) So there's two ways I like to sketch, both shown here. First way involves just straight scribbling on the canvas. This could be one layer, or many. [img]https://i.imgur.com/rhHsF1V.png[/img] The second way involves painting on the canvas, and using a stroke layer style (double click on the layer, and check the box next to "Stroke") to define my edges. This is great for painting large areas, and fine details like jewellry or petals. [img]https://i.imgur.com/Cvim6EW.png[/img] The main goal here is not for cohesion, but throwing lines and ideas down on a canvas quickly. [b]Step 3: Line your design.[/b] Use your newfound clipping layer experiences to clip a colour fill layer to your sketch layer (or group of sketch layers) and reduce the opacity. I like to make my sketch blue or red. Don't do black/grey, it throws your lines off. This is where I shine. I cannot teach you to line, or draw, but I can give some tips. First, find a brush that work with your style. I love crisp lines, so I use a crisp brush with no dithering (sharp versus gradient). Second, make important things bolder with thicker lines. [img]https://imgur.com/qegwlFY.png[/img] Third, if lines intersect, thicken your lines. Line weighting makes or breaks an image. [img]https://imgur.com/1HtcwDO.png[/img] I used to over-render my skins by adding shadows on top of FR shadows, resulting in very dark skins. Now, I do my shadows in the lineart stage. By lightly brushing my pen across my canvas, I can create very thin cross-hatches. This both creates texture, as well as shadows and detail for my skins. This is also very good for hiding less-than stellar artistic skill. I also line EVERYTHING, even if it's going to be 90% covered with something else later. Makes it easy to colour later. [img]https://imgur.com/t9RJXDp.png[/img] Before and After: [img]https://i.imgur.com/JTCP0Xp.png[/img] Even in this lineart stage, I use the painting/stroke style cause no one can pay me enough money to line all those wires. [img]https://i.imgur.com/cg1hWyz.png[/img] [b]Step 4: Colouring book stage.[/b] This is the part I often outsource to people cause I hate colouring. Colour block your layers, keeping your lineart on top. As I like to close off every line, I can easily select spaces using the magic wand tool, pressing control + shift + I to invert the selection, then using Select > Modify > Contract by 1 pixel to quickly colour block my stuff. I will either colour using completely black, grey and white to visualise my values, or horribly garish colours to identify what is 'plant' and what is 'fish' or something else. [img]https://i.imgur.com/nOsADBm.png[/img] Sometimes I like to create a base colour for my whole skin, and clip all my colour layers to the base colour. This makes it easy for recolouring later. [img]https://i.imgur.com/0ZCagl3.png[/img] The black, grey and white colouring is best for recolours, as it allows the beautiful thing known as gradient maps. [img]https://i.imgur.com/jlGSwQ2.png[/img] Add a Pie > Levels layer above your coloured layers, and below your lineart layers. [columns]Adjust your toggles so your 'darkest' sections are indeed the darkest,. and your lightest sections are light.[nextcol] [img]https://i.imgur.com/9HviTEM.png[/img][/columns] [columns][img]https://i.imgur.com/BgdRDhJ.png[/img][nextcol]Create a Pie > Gradient Maps layer, and clip it to the group containing your base colours.[/columns] [img]https://i.imgur.com/a35ndNO.png[/img] Now the purple is gone! Wow! This allows you to make slight alterations to the colours as well, by using masks. Using the gryphon example, my black and white gryphon becomes much easier to recolour. [img]https://imgur.com/w7KiwyD.png[/img] [center][b][u][size=5]Rendering/Final touches!:[/size][/u][/b][/center] I'm running out of room and time in this tutorial, and in this stage I'm usually running out of patience. [img]https://imgur.com/EhV9YwU.png[/img] Most of my shading is already done thanks to the lineart layer, but this is the stage where I add bright outlines to separate focal points, highlights and additional shadows, and sparkles. [img]https://i.imgur.com/HpdlH5I.png[/img] Shadows and highlights: I usually clip these to my base colour layers, but when there aren't any recolours (e.g. customs) I will keep them in a seperate folder. For shadows, I use a dark purple or red brush, on a multiply layer on 30% opacity, for highlights I use either overlay or colour dodge (depending on how strong I want the highlight). Usually it's a yellow or cyan colour brush, with the layer opacity ranging from 50-100%. This section is brief, cause the process is quick. Shadows and lines are a separate battle, and one I will have to dedicate a new post to. But congratulations, your skin is complete! [img]https://i.imgur.com/u2tjGac.png[/img]

and maybe yoink this one for tips, too More tips coming later, but for now: Have a live 350x350 pixel window for telling how something is going to look resized! Click Window > Arrange > New Window for [file name] [img]https://imgur.com/w1Dn7e1.png[/img] In the navigator section, resize the image to 46.67% (if it's a 750px image) and it will show up as a 350x350 preview. [img]https://imgur.com/ZksALfh.png[/img] [img]https://imgur.com/WlKWpuz.png[/img] That way, when you're working, you can peek over and have a look at your beautiful skin and know if you're putting in too much detail for it to be resized properly. [img]https://imgur.com/0HI7oFs.png[/img] It will also update in live time too, so you can keep an eye as you go, instead of hyperfixating and forgetting to check and now you've made every single flower too small.

i'm gonna throw together a little tutorial for how i do space, water, and metal on skins once i'm done with the assignment i'm working on c:

Here's my workflow process. I'll use my aether skin as an example! [gamedb item=49982] I download the appropriate psd from Flight Rising (750x750 canvas), and delete all the layers aside from the base, shadows, and lines. [u][b]Step One:[/b][/u] sketch & lines phase. I generally use my sketch as the lines since I fix any wonky lines while I sketch. I keep each lined element on a separate layer because this helps me recolor lines later. [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101310625734459473/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.41.04_PM.png[/img][/center] [u][b]Step Two:[/b][/u] color block. Medibang's paintbucket/fill tool is... nicely put, bad. So I do this step by hand or ask someone to help me out. I block out each element on a separate layer. This helps me choose colors for my skins since I can easily switch between color choices after I have everything blocked out. [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101310626070024203/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.48.17_PM.png[/img] [/center] [u][b]Step Three:[/b][/u] render. I add patterns to the appropriate elements and then add lighting and shadows. For render, usually I'll add a gradient first, then use highlights if it's a darker element and shadows if it's a lighter element. i.e. the ginkgo leaves. I applied a dark brown gradient on the edges, then used a small highlight in the middle of each leaf. I used to do heavier/more complicated rendering, but that kind of detail tends to get really lost after resize, so I've found that using simple rendering techniques like gradients will look the best. [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101310626531385435/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.50.01_PM.png[/img][/center] [u][b]Step Four:[/b][/u] tinting lineart, aka coloring parts of the lineart so they meld better with the colors I've picked. Usually I do this by clipping a layer onto the appropriate lineart layer. This helps for making recolors of the skin. [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101311730669342801/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.59.16_PM.png[/img][/center] [u][b]Step Five:[/b][/u] misc. elements I do this step towards the end because I use these elements to balance out the skin (make sure parts don't look bare). [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101310627563184178/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.53.26_PM.png[/img][/center] I also fix the silhouette images in the back. Those elements don't require much render, so I'll change them around if I think they're adding too much noise. Then I erase everything outside of the base to make sure it gets past queue ^^ [center][img]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/932024913655627796/1101310627915497472/Screen_Shot_2023-04-27_at_8.54.53_PM.png[/img][/center]

[center][img]https://i.postimg.cc/nVGP3LN2/leafy.gif[/img][/center] My process is split between Procreate for drawing, and Photoshop for resizing and applying the lines and shadows. I'll be using [gamedb item=50199] as an example. [u][b]Step 1. Sketch.[/b][/u] I download the 750x750px skin psd from Flight Rising and delete all the layers besides the lines and shadows and the base silhouette. I like to make a copy of the layer "Clip Lines" and set it at a low opacity over the base, so that I can see where the details of the dragons will be. IMPORTANT NEW TIP: Resizing the canvas to a multiple of 350 (like 700px) makes a HUGE difference in resizing it later! I highly recommend it! During this time I will also collect a bunch of reference images. For Abyssal Kelp Hunter, this mostly was made of giant kelp photography. I didn't stick strongly to it, but having a real life reference will improve your art a lot. Then I sketch! I prefer to work with color and unity over lineart, so my sketches are generally very loose, and focus on color blocking my overall composition. It all goes in the trash once I finish lining. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/gjQSZySh/image.png[/img] [u][b]Step 2. Lining.[/b][/u] I use a fairly hard G-brush imitation at 1.5-2px and 25% stability to make my lines. I group my layers by color and texture -- for example, the wing fins are all one layer, the kelp is another layer, and the tentacles are another layer, and so forth. This allows me to adjust large parts of the canvas together later. During this time I will turn off my sketch often to make sure the lines look good on their own. Pro tip: Make your design "break" the boundaries of the dragon when you can. Obviously it all has to stay within the base silhouette, but for example, along the tail, I used the little tail spines to let the kelp bits come away from the tail itself. This will help it look more 3d and less pasted to the dragon. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/g0mM82Dg/image.png[/img] [u][b]Step 3. Color Fill.[/b][/u] One of the more tedious steps for me QAQ I always have a color swatch to the side. This becomes especially useful when I start shading, as multiply and screen layers make it hard to simply color pick my desired colors afterwards. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/7hF96HhM/image.png[/img] [u][b]Step 4. Rendering.[/b][/u] The most time consuming, but my favorite step! Now is when it stops looking like trash! I use a hard blending brush that allows me to make crisp angles with high pressure, and soft gradients with low pressure. Generally, I work in grouped elements, largest canvas coverage to smallest. You can see I finished the kelp and started adding broad shadows to the fins. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/fLk1Sbz6/image.png[/img] Below is my usual layer modes, in the order I make them: Multiply: base shadows Screen: base lights Overlay (optional): slight color adjustments, I like using this layer for "bloom" effects with stronger lighting Add (Linear Add): strong lights. This is an easily overused layer mode, so I use it only for the brightest highlights. I strongly recommend highlighting the edges of small elements, as it will make them stand out better once the skin is resized. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/cLZjMh17/image.png[/img] (also, yes. folders and named layers are a big help. make use of them) [u][b]Step 5. Extra Detail.[/b][/u] Now I finished rendering all the parts, what do I do? [i]Sparkles[/i]. Remember I said I don't like overusing Add layer? Now I do. Left is pre-sparkles, right is post-sparkles. During this time I also color in the inside parts of my lineart so it stand out less. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/fbRr1b9J/image.png[/img] [u][b]Step 6. Resizing & Apply L&S.[/b][/u] Everyone's favorite step... no... I move to Photoshop for this step because Procreate's resize is frankly abhorrent. For me, I prefer Bicubic Smooth to resize to 350px, but they really will all make me cry once I shrink it, so it doesn't matter. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/QtRYBknT/image.png[/img] What matters is THIS: [img]https://i.postimg.cc/52nP5MR1/image.png[/img] Unsharp Mask, find under Filters > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask. Occasionally if I had a lot of details, I will add a small (~3% threshold) use of Smart Sharpen as well, but usually Unsharp Mask will do the job. Now I apply lines and shadows. There isn't a good screenshot for this, but I prefer tinting my lines and shadows fairly saturated colors, this prevents them from washing out my design too much. Shadows should always be on Multiply. If you have a light color for lines, use Multiply as well. If your lines are dark, you may be able to get away with Overlay. But keep in mind they will have to be clearly visible (as in, turn down your screen brightness from 100%, step away from the desk...) over the accent in order to be accepted. Done! Always provide preview if you are selling the accent. Buyers can't decide if they don't know how it looks on their dragon! [img]https://i.postimg.cc/3wqn6Fhc/image.png[/img] [center][b][u]Extra Stuff[/u][/b][/center] I was asked before, so here's a small and messy tutorial for how I paint water. Maybe more added later. [skin=47292] [img]https://i.postimg.cc/sfY49rM8/image.png[/img]

[center](WIP) I currently use Procreate and Clip Studio Paint- [i](er well.. used to! It expired as I am writing this post so I got very unlucky haha)[/i] and either my iPad or Artist 24 Pro, please keep in mind however I used a Wacom Intuos for the longest time and still made really good art- so keep that in mind! I simply list these for anyone who is curious, but do not take this as a requirement to making skins or art in general! When I first get started, I start on 750x750 pixels that's already the given size from FR's PSD files. I do not normally use the layers provided from FR anymore and only on the rare occasion that I have an idea of what to do for those specific areas, so I delete all of them except the lineart, shadows, and base color layer. I clip the sketch layer above the base and sketch how I would normally, keeping in mind how I can incorporate the dragon's overall shape with the design. I recommend having a clear idea or something such as a moodboard to find elements that you can include in the skin as well! [img]https://i.imgur.com/uLdxq9M.png[/img] Then I do the lineart- my process from my art and skins are pretty much the same thing... I crank up that stabilization, and hit undo an ungodly amount of times. I keep the lineart for certain objects in seperate folders so I can recolor those specific areas if needed. I also block in a very basic color so that the lineart doesnt seem to clip into the other lineart of other objects. [img]https://i.imgur.com/HLjpiQg.png[/img] Here I block in colors- For this particular skin I wanted to reference Death Head Hawkmoths for the colors, but also have a bit more general autumn colors to show in the design such as the filigree. I also change the base color to match with the overall colors. [img]https://i.imgur.com/vQ1Ddme.png[/img] Then I do shading- my shading is in the middle of soft and hard shading, and I try to keep it that way in the event that I need to emphasize curves or hard shadows. One my shading is done is when I finally color my lineart, where I choose the darkest color for the object's line art and make it slightly darker. Then, I move onto highlights! [img]https://i.imgur.com/tJ63F1H.png[/img] Lastly, I do any needed touch-ups. Need some extra glow on those candles or the moon? Use color dodge to brighten it up! Need some cool fancy glowing particles or outlines? Slap those on too! For color dodge I use a color in the middle of the color wheel on the more desaturated side, and I take great care with not using too much of it! For glows, I duplicate the flatcolor layer, use "Add" or "Glow Dodge" on the duplicated layer, and then use the gaussian blur to add a glowing effect. [img]https://i.imgur.com/hbj3x71.png[/img] Example of my glowy outlines as well! [img]https://i.imgur.com/LXkpTKQ.png[/img] (I will finish formatting and add info to the other post tomorrow i am tired atm)