silly stuff -
...my accents usually look better than this.
permafrost derelict used these concepts:
if you wanted a better example.
- when making accents, i tend to enlarge my files from 750x750 to 3000x3000. i use the enlargement setting "Nearest Neighbor (hard edges)" to do this, and use the same setting to resize the file back down to 750x750 after i finish. EEEEEDDDDIT: feel silly for not saying this, but i resize it back like this to keep the exact pixels of the art in-tact. when resizing from 750 to 350, i use bicubic smooth - the same one seen in the official site tutorial.
- i always duplicate the "Accent Parts" folder before i begin to work. it's much easier to line and color accents when they're on two different folders since you can keep your linework nice and clean while you fumble with your colors... it's like having separate layers, just with more fancy stuff.
- take advantage of the clipping masks - you can most definitely stick stuff in the middle of your base layer and the shadows/lines. it opens up a lot of opportunities to make your accent really stand out, and can really help you stay organized.
- this is more generally art-related - you really should consider recoloring the shadows/lines. consider what kind of stuff is in your accent... and shade with a dull color. lines may be a darker mix of the main color and the shaded color, or be specific depending on your area.
- tentatively, small highlights that make minor (or even arguably negligable) infractions on the shading rule can be done. this can mean like... gemstone or shiny accents can have little bright spots over shadows, by using a light color above the shadow layer. however: use this sparingly - really, only to emphasize the qualities that you're trying to show or when it makes an immensely desirable effect. also, don't try this with straight-up #FFFFFF white. don't ask me why if you can't already tell.
...my accents usually look better than this.
permafrost derelict used these concepts:
if you wanted a better example.