Guides

A Mire build is great for training 2 dragons at once. And a great thing with a mire build is you can train a second level 25 dragon (to keep or to sell) while training fodder dragons to exalt (at level 7-9) to pay for the stones you use on the Level 25 dragon you are training. A mire build dragon can be found on this forum post http://www1.flightrising.com/forums/gde/1040710/1#3141237 - but here are the basics - Str 117, Qck 70 and the rest of your points into VIT (22-25 points depending on if you've tinctured) with at least Scratch, Eliminate, Rally, 2 Ambush and 3 Berserker - I also recommend Sap (some people like Haste - I don't find it useful) - The BEST dragon to use for this build is an Arcane dragon as it will have no elemental weaknesses in the Mire. [img]http://puu.sh/uQVEX/3a9247e8e4.jpg[/img] [b]Placing your dragons in the lineup.[/b] How you arrange your dragons for battle is key - not for your first few levels on your dragon your keeping - but once your dragon you are keeping hits level 9, you can put a single Ambush stone on them, taking up the skipped ambush turn and giving your battle dragon an extra turn! [img]http://puu.sh/uQVSM/4258fe93c6.jpg[/img] when you are putting your dragons into their line up - you want the dragon you are training to keep in the FIRST spot (where the Coatl is) this will ensure that once they have that ambush stone on them - they soak that skipped turn. in the middle spot is the best place to put a fodder dragon - I know the site uses a RNG to decide what dragon is hit in battle when a monster attacks - but I have found personally when my battle dragon is in the THIRD spot he gets hit less often in the next frames - Who you are fighting & How to fight.

so Who are you fighting - with a mire dragon you are fighting the following individuals in The Mire [item=Salve Kamaitachi] - Salve Kamaitachi - FAST! Magic user uses Contuse - Kill Quickly [item=Wetland Unicorn] Wetland Unicorn - FAST! Magic user uses Contuse - Kill Quickly [item=Scythe Kamaitachi] Scythe Kamaitachi - FAST! - Kill First in mixed company [item=Venomous Toridae] Venomous Toridae - FAST! - Kill First in mixed company [item=Poisonous Toridae] Poisonous Toridae [item=Shellion] Shellion [item=Sickle Kamaitachi] Sickle Kamaitachi [item=Southmarsh Podid] Southmarsh Podid [item=Mistwatch Shellion] Mistwatch Shellion - Magic User - Use as starter monster [item=Blackwing Croaker] Blackwing Croaker Magic User - Use as starter monster [item=Common Podid] Common Podid Magic User - Use as starter monster [item=Heartred Croaker] Heartred Croaker Magic User - Use as starter monster [item=Mossy Cerdae] Mossy Cerdae - Magic User - REQUIRES Scratch Eliminate [item=Brilliant Psywurm] Brilliant Psywurm - Magic User - REQUIRES Scratch Eliminate [item=Psywurm] Psywurm - Magic User - FAST! - Kill First in mixed company [item=Wartoad] Wartoad - Boss monster - Restart [item=Molten Wartoad] Molten Wartoad - Boss monster - Restart

[b]The Fight Screen[/b] here is the "battle" screen showing a starting battle in the Mire [img]http://puu.sh/uQZM8/e605dd8a74.jpg[/img] on the top shows the dragons and monsters - on the bottom left is your health and breath bars and the bottom right the Action buttons. [img]http://puu.sh/uR0yp/320294c4d9.jpg[/img] Here is a close up of the health and breath bar - if you hover your mouse over a line it will tell you how many points you have exactly. [img]http://puu.sh/uR0B7/8feca3ef5f.jpg[/img] Here is a close up of the action buttons of a Mire dragon (mine has aid instead of Haste) in the bottom right corner of each action there is a number that tells you how much breath you either gain (Scratch & Rally) or use (Eliminate/Sap/Aid) when use the action. You can see that the Aid is greyed out & the number is red because there is not enough breath for it to be activated. [img]http://puu.sh/uQZXu/b6a1ae4214.jpg[/img] after you've ended your turn your screen shows like this - showing the purple bars of XP points for each dragon on the left, and on the right any "loot" your dragons earned during the battle. On the bottom left is the Victory Chain (something useful when training up dragons using non-level 25 dragons - it doesn't work when one of the dragons in the battle is a level 25) and on the bottom right are the action buttons to either return to the "main menu" or "fight on" if you return to the main menu you loose all the breath you have built up - if you fight on, your dragons health (unless knocked unconscious) and breath remains unchanged. If your dragon was knocked unconscious it will return to life with a small amount of health.

GETTING STARTED

First you'll want to get a good pack of monsters - 2 or 3 of the slower magic users - (Mistwatch Shellion, Blackwing Croaker, Common Podid, Mossy Cerdae, Brilliant Psywurm or Heartred Croakers) if you are using a NON-Arcane dragon - be aware of your elemental weakness and DO NOT put those monsters in your opening line up!

a 2 pack of the magic users will give just enough breath for you to use rally/eliminate on your next battle.

How the magic users work, on their first attack turn they use Mediate to gather breath, then their second turn, they have a chance to use an attack or mediate again. IF they attack on their second turn their third turn WILL be a mediate again.

On your turn, you will use scratch over and over on each monster until your eliminate is able to be activated. You can choose to scratch all the way through all 3 monsters (12 scratches) or finish the last one off with an eliminate when it is available. I prefer to build up a bit of extra breath and just scratch.

On your second & all following battles - depending on your monster pack - you will either rally once then eliminate everything, or scratch/eliminate each monster (Brilliant Psywurms & Mossy Cerdae) each rally builds a bit more breath for you - but you'll notice when you get to your second round of turns, you have two turns - take the first of the two turns and use a scratch so that you can build a bit more breath each turn.

When you are battling mixed packs of monsters (magic users and non) take out the non-magic users first because the magic users ALWAYS uses mediate for their first move. It's the 3 packs of non magic users that are going to eat away at your health over time - so when you have your breath bar near full (it won't ever be fully full as eliminate doesn't allow your breath bar to be fully full) use sap instead of scratch for one turn - it will do the same amount of damage as scratch, but return a small amount of health to your dragon. Build your breath bar back up again and repeat.

When the Boss monsters show up (Wartoad and Molten Wartoad) refresh the page and restart - when you are battling with a single mire dragon you don't have enough ability to do damage to them before they kill you. Later on as you train up a dragon to keep (once they have a strength of 117 and a bit of quick) you can battle them if you want - but know that it will wipe out your breath and it's a good question on if the XP is really worth it.

[b]How to assign Stats to your dragon[/b] from the main page [img]http://puu.sh/uR2r6/7d34389ba7.jpg[/img] select the button for Abilities and Stats - it will default to the first dragon in your lineup [url]http://puu.sh/uR2up/6b1eb8c834.jpg[/url] on the left is your dragon's "stone" menu - where you apply and equip stones - on the right top is the name of the dragon & level of the dragon bracketed by arrows - you use these arrows to scroll through the dragons on the team. below the dragon name is the selected dragons stats box & an image of the dragon - if the dragon has any unassigned stat points there will be a box that says "Stat points available" Below the dragon's stat box - is a box showing all the available stones in your hoard. Stones that are unavailable to equip are greyed out. to equip a stone - find the stone in the available stones box and drag it to the dragon's stone menu and place it into the appropriate box, once you place the stone where you want it, push the "lock stone" button. - if you look at the stone & box they will have matching markings (Circle - Square - Triangle - Diamond) if the stone is able to be placed in that box. To assign stats - click on the yellow box that says "Stat points available" it brings up this screen [img]http://puu.sh/uR366/886e9b80a9.jpg[/img] to assign points - click the plus button under the attribute you wish to assign the stat points in. you will notice in the top right corner of the smaller square there is a small blue bottle - this is because I have a "Tincture of Dissolution" in my hoard - a Tincture of Dissolution is used to take a dragons stats back down to a base of 5. it can be used on any dragon at any time. A dragon comes with certain stats depending on breed. Or you could get a dragon partially leveled on the AH that someone started assigning points randomly on. a Tincture resets the dragon allowing you the freedom to start over. [b]When and how to assign points[/b] when I am training a dragon - I actually don't assign any points until the dragon is level 17 - the dragon just doesn't get any turns in the coli and it doesn't do any "work" When I do assign points - I put ALL of the points in strength letting unused points sit unused until I reach the next level and can put more points in strength. I do this until the dragon is at 117. Once the dragon is at 117 strength I start putting points in quick - and go to 50 quick. Unless the dragon I am training is destined to be a particular build that's where I leave them. They can then be made into a mire dragon, a farming build or a kelp beds build without needing a tincture. That's it - an in depth look at how to train a level 25 dragon with a mire build dragon

Thanks for this guide!
@Huskily Pinging myself for reference :)

@jazilee I thought 72 quk was the norm? not 70?

@tehcoffeezombie The flyer stats got changed a bit and now 70 is the quickness instead
@jazilee Nice job on the guide! It's helpful in some ways even if you arent training a level 25
Personally, I put points into vitality since you rarely get a turn on your other dragons, so it'll make them take more hits and thus not turn your mire flyer into the main target as fast (which would make the flyer die quicker) because they can stay alive longer and act as extra targets for longer

@xxWolfii

huh, can you give me a link explaining the reasoning for the changes? curious.

@tehcoffeezombie I checked- 72 is the norm for Kiena's mire flyer build, this guide uses Culex's build which uses 70 instead in exchange for a bit of extra vitality
There was a change to culex's build at one point and that also got a qck change but I remembered Kiena might have used a different way so I decided to check